Cake Patterns is a new independent sewing pattern company run by Steph of 3hourspast. I was chosen as a test sewer for the line's first pattern, Tiramisu. However, a little hiccup meant I didn't receive my pattern until it was released, I'm sharing my version of it with you now.
The pattern is based upon a different system of sizing. You choose your bodice according to your upper bust measurement, which is then broken down into cup sizes, although you're supposed to choose your cup size based upon your measurements, not necessarily what size bra you wear.
This part tripped me up a bit. My upper bust is 33″ & my bust is 35-1/2″. Based upon this I was directed to choose the size 30 front & back bodice pieces. However, on the front bodice pattern piece it gave the full bust measurements for the different cup sizes. The 30D was listed as making a 33-1/2″ bodice, which had me worried it would be too tight. The 30C came in at 32-1/2″. I generally wear a C cup, although the odd D will fit.
I tried the 30D & surprisingly found it to be too large. The under bust seam hung down a little far below my breasts & the shoulder seams fell towards my back. Still, the fit wasn't bad & I could still lean over without having the top gape open & expose everything for all to see. So I decided to chop off the midriff band & turn the muslin into a top.
From the midriff band I based the pattern for the body of my top. I took in the side seams on the midriff for a more fitted look, shortened the band according to the measurements of my short waist, then extended the side seams out & down with a curved line. My hip curve ruler came in handy for this. Very luckily, I got all the curve angles correct on the first go & didn't have to make any further adjustments aside from letting out the sides a bit (I had forgotten to add seam allowances, doh!).
I also attached the body a little higher on the bodice to help take care of the 'too large' problem. However, while my bodice now seemed to fit properly just at the base of my bust, it now rode up a little as I moved. Disappointing. Until I washed the top on cold & air dried it. Magically, it fit perfectly after that! It no longer really rides up & I finally, finally, finally have a surplice top that sits where it's supposed to! Major win in my books.
Let's talk stripes. Instead of the usual grainline, Steph has stretch/stripe lines on the pattern. They look like regular grainlines, except they're longer & don't have arrows at the ends. Just having a written reminder on the pattern pieces about the direction of the stripes helped save me from a grievous placement mistake.
I've worn the top a few times now & I can say that it's very comfy, not restricting, & I think it makes my boobs look a little larger. But best of all there's no gaping neckline when you bend over! Huzzah!
Now for the fabric. It's not my usual style, but it was so cheap. Plus, I was eager to try a crepe style knit. Crepe style knits stretch just like regular knits, but they have a slightly bumpy or pebbled surface- & I'm not talking purl bumps here. It's good to toss in the novel every now & then. Still, I'm adjusting to the print. I'll say it again, it's just not my usual style. It's funny how I don't think a neon green top is too loud, but black & white chevrons are. Maybe i just need the chevrons to be ridiculously large in order to feel at home in them. The smaller size seems a bit busy. Yet the top fits so well that I've enjoyed wearing it regardless. I need to make some more in a solid fabric to suit my normal tastes. What do you think dear readers? Do the bold chevrons suit me?
If you're interested in procuring the fabulous Tiramisu pattern you can also look forward to a 30min/day sew along starting in January. Plenty of time to get the pattern & fabric. I can't wait to see all the pretty dresses everyone makes! And check out this awesome version of the Tiramisu dress in a lovely purple. I almost made my dress in purple & now I'm wishing I had!